Measure the usable width, not the wall. Then take about two thirds of it for the sign, and mark that out in painter's tape before you order.
Ninety percent of size regret is buying too small. Almost nobody tells us their sign is bigger than they expected in a bad way.
Measure the usable width first
The wall is rarely the constraint. What matters is the clear space the sign can actually occupy once furniture, switches, sockets, shelves and door swings are accounted for.
Stand where people will normally stand. Note where the space visually starts and stops. Measure that, not the plasterboard.
Then tape it out
This is the step people skip and then regret. Take painter's tape and mark the actual rectangle on the wall at the size you are considering. Leave it there for a day and walk past it.
- ✓ Look at it from the doorway, not from a foot away.
- ✓ Look at it with the room lights off. A lit sign dominates more at night than the tape suggests.
- ✓ Photograph the taped wall and look at the photo. A camera flattens the room and shows you what the sign will look like in pictures.
- ✗ Do not trust a mental image. Everyone underestimates. Consistently.
Height and the things around it
| Measure | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Floor to the center of the sign | Eye level for a standing room is about 150 to 160 cm |
| Top of furniture to ceiling | Sets the maximum height, and it is usually the real limit |
| Distance to the nearest outlet | Decides which side the cable should exit |
| Clearance above a sofa or bed | 15 to 25 cm gap reads as connected rather than floating |
What to send us
The usable width, the maximum height, and a photograph of the wall with a known object in it, a door, a light switch, a sofa. That last part is worth more than the numbers, because it lets us sanity check the proportions rather than just the arithmetic.
Take your best guess at the size, then go one step up. In years of drawings the single most common message after delivery is that people wish they had gone bigger, and we have almost never had the reverse. If the budget will not stretch, shorten the wording rather than the width.
Frequently asked questions
How do I work out what size neon sign to buy?
Measure the usable width of the space rather than the whole wall, allowing for furniture, sockets and door swings, then aim for the sign to fill about two thirds of it. If it sits above furniture, size it against the furniture instead: two thirds to three quarters of the sofa or bed below.
How high should a neon sign be hung?
Center it around 150 to 160 cm from the floor for a room people stand in. Above a sofa or bed, leave 15 to 25 cm of clearance so it reads as belonging to the furniture rather than floating separately above it.
Why do people say their sign is too small?
Because a size that looks large on a screen looks modest on a wall, and everyone underestimates. Marking the dimensions out in painter's tape and living with it for a day corrects this better than any amount of measuring, and it costs nothing.
Does the outlet position matter before I order?
Yes. The cable exit is built into the sign and cannot be changed afterwards. Tell us which side your outlet is on when you order, or you will end up with a visible cable running across the wall for the life of the sign.
What should I send you about my wall?
The usable width, the maximum height, and a photograph of the wall containing something of known size such as a door or a light switch. The photo is the most useful part, because it lets us check the proportions rather than only the numbers.
We have made neon since 1998, and we still make it ourselves. If something here does not answer your question, ask us.
